Since November of 2022 I have been studying the circular economy for fashion at a hyperlocal level. I’ve turned my garage in Bexley, Ohio into a sort facility. In my community of roughly 14,000 residents, people pass along clothing and accessories to me that they no longer want. I try to keep the clothing in circulation in our community for as long as possible through resale, swap events, and through thoughtful donations to organizations serving the local community. I’ve experimented with small remanufacturing projects using garments that have reached the end of their lives in their current manifestation. I’m doing all that I can to valorize discarded clothing to its utmost potential. In total I’ve sorted more than 25,000 garments in the past two years. One of the biggest challenges in keeping clothing in circulation is branded T-shirts.
If you are sentient, own a phone, and reside within 15 minutes of a big box store, you likely know that far more clothing is being produced than is needed. No single solution will entirely address the textile waste crisis. Organized community clothing exchanges will have a measurable impact on reduced waste at a local level. I have deep respect for the work done by national charities, and I view the hyperlocal approach of keeping clothing in circulation as a complement to clothing resale charities. Unless we all follow up dropping off a truckload of our old clothing at Goodwill with shopping for that pair of black pants we need for work at that same Goodwill, we’re all supporting a linear clothing economy rather than a circular economy. If done well, efforts to give clothing one more chance with a new local owner before it goes outside of the community can reduce the volume of new clothing that is purchased globally. At the community clothing exchanges I host, I frequently see high-quality clothing, sometimes new with tags, go home with new owners who are happy to freshen up their closets.
People eagerly embrace the concept of high-quality clothing swaps and understand the need for shifting consumption habits, especially when it comes to textiles. But for whatever reason, the same people who understand the need for change still love creating their commemorative T-shirts. Unless you’re Beyoncé, Yosemite National Park or NPR, you don’t need to create a branded T-shirt.
I’m being dramatic, but really only a little dramatic. Hear me out:
What’s the name of your local elementary school? Sunrise Elementary? And they’re the Sunrise Skinks? That’s adorable! But no one outside of Sunrise Elementary could give a hoot about the Sunrise Skinks. Sunrise Skink spirit wear should remain in perpetual circulation in and around the Sunrise school district. Don’t disparage the Skinks by having your daughter’s hoodie landfilled in Chile. The Skinks deserve better, and so do the people of Chile.
Everyone who creates T-shirts, especially ones that they’ll give away, should find out how much value that T-shirt has for its intended recipients. If the recipients aren’t truly excited about this shirt, if they won’t cherish it, if it doesn’t truly signify a milestone event in their lives, then consider not producing it.
Let’s rethink branded T-shirts
I’m proposing that companies that aren’t coveted brands should stop making clothing that people aren’t proud to wear at least 25 times. Orthodontists: Please ask your clients if they really will wear a T-shirt with your LLC printed on it. Save the money on the branded T-shirt and offer a gift of appreciation, or even a discount, to clients who give a thoughtful review of your business.
If a client tells you that your custom T-shirt is their favorite to sleep in, this is already a defeat. The people in that household are the only ones being exposed to your brand, and they’re already well aware that they’re paying your orthodontist office for braces.
I propose that organizations that host events (a mural fest, a BBQ, a 5K run/walk) be realistic about how much significance the event has for participants. If you must offer a T-shirt, consider leaving off the year. Invite a local artist to design the graphic and ask people to pay for the T-shirt in advance so that those who are really excited about the Turkey Trot/Fun Run/Community Car Wash/Dementia Awareness Day/Library Read-a-Thon can cherish their commemorative T-shirt for years to come. If that sounds complicated or like it would cost too much money, then consider skipping the T-shirts altogether and save all of the cash.
I suggest that high school sports teams reevaluate their approach to gear in general. If branded gear is necessary for team morale, consider not personalizing it. Or at least reduce the number of products that are personalized. Who else is going to want the jacket, and the shorts, and the T-shirt, and the pants that all have a player’s name and number on it? It’s all likely to end up landfilled or incinerated.
I am asking Parent Teacher Organizations to reevaluate the graphics on spirit wear they order. If the year is removed, the resale opportunities increase. The PTO can even profit from this resale opportunity if they’d like to host the swap. (Join the Circular Thrift Community to get the clothing swap playbook!)
Profitability, cost savings and return on investment should always be part of the conversation when it comes to producing new clothing. Many potential solutions to the textile waste crisis are costly or complicated. But reducing the production of clothing, especially clothing that people don’t care about or want, has a triple bottom line and merits evaluation. So consider swag other than branded T-shirts that are likely to get tossed almost immediately.
Now if you’ll excuse me, it’s time for me to put on my Simon Orthodontics sleeping shirt from 2016. Go sell some braces, folks!
